Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Luck is shining on the Snow family. There just happens to be one car rental place on site here at our condo and it is Alamo which is where our flat-tire car is from. Gramps and Keith took care of the swapping-the-car business while I made cream cheese eggs and bagels for breakfast and the kids lounged around. After breakfast Keith took the kids to the pool for a bit and grandpa and I relaxed in the condo. I ended up snoozing instead of reading but luckily Dad woke me up in time to make spaghetti for lunch before the kids got back then we gathered up and headed to Xcaret.
We decided to just do the swim and show tickets for Xcaret. Those are half the price. I remembered that Heather had said the show is the best part and worth the ticket after she went when we were down here a couple years ago. Xcaret is beautiful and I probably would have liked to spend more time there but we had fun lazily snorkeling down the river and seeing the pretty fish and even a turtle. We saw a few of the exhibits after the river but then we headed over to the spectacular.
That show is the Mayan answer to the Polynesian Cultural Center show. It was fabulous. Grandpa really loved it. He said “Your Ma would have been beside herself over that show.” She would have. She would have been planning to make one of the hundreds of amazing costumes they showcased and she probably would have videoed the whole show (instead of just snips here and there like I did) hoping to show her family what she saw. The show is over 2 hours long and is packed full of great music, costumes, singing, drums, dancing, and energy. I couldn’t believe that more than two hours had gone by when it was over. It is a pageant about the history of the Mayan people through the centuries including the Spanish conquest. Heather was right...worth the ticket.
After the show we looked around some more at the animals and some exhibits. Most things were closing up though so we were in the car headed for home just after nine. We ate a very late dinner of pulled pork sandwiches and mashed potatoes and then prepared for our scuba day in Cozumel. The alarm is set for 5:30...I better hit the sack. Life is exciting!
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Wow is the word of the day. I actually opened my eyes a few minutes before the alarm went off. I had taken care of all my camera equipment last night so I just had to get the kids fed and out the door. Keith and I had gone in to Playa de Carmen just before Xcaret yesterday to scout out parking and figure the timing of our trip. We left in good time to make the 7am ferry over to Cozamel. We parked at the public library which is free parking and just a few blocks from the ferry. We only bought one way tickets thanks to the advice of Rita at Albatros Charters. She didn’t want us to have to commit to a particular company both ways since that may mean waiting two hours for the next ferry from that particular company. It proved to be invaluable advice!
I have to take a minute and praise Rita. I came across Rita a few weeks ago as I was researching scuba companies on Cozumel. There are hundreds of them since Cozumel is one of the premier places to dive in the world. Well, I found a few that had great web sites and competitive prices so I emailed them all asking for more details and about some of the logistics etc and also explaining our situation–four teenage novice divers (just finished with certification) most likely going down for the first time in the ocean on Cozumel and a snorkeler along for the ride. All the other companies sent back an automatic reply telling me to refer to the web site or a short message about prices and address and what ferry to take to make the morning dive (“6am ferry for the 8:15 dive”). Rita with Albatross Charters wrote a long detailed sales email explaining their philosophy of bottom time based on air use and safety rather than time or person with highest air use. Also they are a school so they are very accustomed with working with newbies and making sure they are confident and well cared for. She suggested some dives that are gorgeous for scuba and attractive for snorkelers and was willing to travel the extra time in the boat to get there. I was sold and called her on the phone number she gave me to ask more questions. She was so helpful. I told her that Keith and I had tried to dive Cozamel a couple of years ago but the ports were closed on the day we came over so we missed out. I didn’t settle anything with her on that day but told her that the plan was to spend Saturday, November 20 on Cozamel and she put us on the schedule in pencil. Anyway, a couple of days before we flew out of Utah she called me to let me know that she had been watching the weather and could see that a “Norte” was coming through Cozamel the weekend we were planning to be over there. She remembered what had happened to Keith and I and didn’t want it to happen again. She said that ports close if winds are at 16 knots. She said that she wouldn’t know until that morning around 7:15 if the ports were going to close. I didn’t want to chance it. If the ports weren’t closed the water would be choppy and I really wanted the Cozumel dive to be perfect. She said she had spots open throughout the following week so we tentatively moved our Cozamel day for Monday. Well Friday night here at our condo I got a call from her and she was still watching the weather and she said that Monday still looked bad. She looked at Tuesday and Wednesday and compared the predicted wind speeds and Wednesday looked to be the best day. I became a fan of Rita and Albatross charters just because she obviously wasn’t just trying to fill a schedule but actually was interested in making our experience the best it could be. She arranged to meet us with our equipment at a pier just a block from the ferry terminal instead of making us come to the shop like several other companies wanted us to do. She asked what time we would be there instead of telling us what time to be there. She spent time giving instructions on how to prepare the kids that had been suffering with a cold and what to bring and determined what she would bring in order to make us the most comfortable. I felt very well cared for and I knew that my young ones would be in good hands.
We arrived on Cozumel at 8ish. It was earlier than we had told Albatross so we walked down to the pier and Keith stayed with the stuff while we visited the shops that were already open across the street. Big time touristy places and sales people. Seth got perturbed enough to say “I am going to make a t-shirt that says, ‘If I want it, I will ask for it’ and on the back it will say, ‘no gracias!’”
Edwin, the dive master, and Daniel, the boat captain, came in a big beautiful boat with a canopy and comfortable seating and all our equipment ready to go. They helped us load all our stuff and stow it in nets on the ceiling so it wouldn’t get wet. Ashlyn opted to use a wet suit but the rest of us were comfortable in the water the other day on a stormy day so we were sure we would be okay on this most perfect of days. It took about 40 minutes to get to the spots that we had picked for our family. Edwin made sure we were well outfitted with the proper weights etc on the way. The boat was big enough and fast enough that the ride was pretty smooth so Austin and Ash and Keith were very comfortable. The rest of us don’t get motion sickness so we weren’t worried.
On the count of three we all fell backward off the sides of the boat and sunk into the clear blue water. My camera is very heavy and I found that I can stay horizontal and control my buoyancy better as I swim around with it. I really love being able to record this unbelievably beautiful family activity. “The family that dives together, thrives together.”
It was immediately apparent why Cozamel is such a diver’s paradise. The reefs are like the best of the scuba pictures you see. The color’s are vivid and bright and full of life. It was fun to see the kids pointing out all of it to each other as we went around the reef wall and through tunnels and caves in the reef. About half way through the first dive, Edwin got our attention and pointed out Grandpa to us about 60 feet above us. He was wearing a red t-shirt which we could see clearly through that amazing clear water. We all waved. Apparently, Grandpa had gotten into the water just after we did and had followed us around looking down on us from the surface. The water was so clear he could see a lot of what we saw (besides he can “see the fleas on a dear’s back from a hundred yards out”) and their were quite a lot of fish that came right up to him out there. He and mom had come to Cozumel about 10 years ago but they had just snorkeled off of the north shore so this was a great experience.
After coffee cake and water and fruit on the boat and a 15 minute drive from the Palancar gardens and caves to the Columbia shallows we dropped into a beautiful world that truly looked like a wonderland of sea life. We felt like we were in an aquarium with such a diversity of colors and sizes of fish. This was a shallower dive so we were only 20-30 feet below grandpa the whole time. Edwin just led us slowly around the reefs, allowing us to explore and move around. He kept an eye on us and pointed out with hand signals all the coolest species like lobsters and grupers and even an amazingly friendly sea turtle and an eagle ray. I got a lot on video but I ran out of battery after the sea turtle. The kids ran out of air well before Keith and I so Edwin took them to the boat and let us continue until our air was used up. We got to look around for at least another 15-20 minutes. We got to see a huge morey eel. He was at least 7-8 feet long and over a foot top to bottom and the prettiest bright green color. He slithered into a cave in the reef and wouldn’t come out but we got to see him. Way cool!
After unloading onto the pier, we walked to the Mega store and used their clean spacious bathrooms to change our clothes (we used the hand driers to dry some of our stuff too). We bought rotisserie chicken with rice and coleslaw and some yummy Mexican cookies which we ate at the tables by a big window. We were hungry even with the snacks provided by Albatross.
Shopping was next. Grandpa bought a pair of full alligator skin boots. I don’t know what he was saying but he negotiated with the guy for quite some time and finally the guy relented and gave dad his price. I think he originally wanted $500usd. We found trinkets and presents for friends. And I found earrings. Keith got a “dive Cozamel” shirt and we all got on the 5:30 ferry happy, satisfied and tired after an amazing day. Life is beautiful.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Happy Thanksgiving! Well, I didn’t cook a turkey or even fix yams and apples but it was still a fine Thanksgiving. We originally planned to go to Isla Mujeras today but everyone seemed a bit tired so we decided to make it a lounge-by-the-pool day...at least for Keith and the kids. Grandpa and I left after breakfast to explore Puerta Morelas and find a Lavanderia del ropa (laundry). They did not have a self serve laundry. We only found a laundress in the Pueblo area who charged 10 pesos per kilogram. We had 14 kilograms of laundry and we left it all with a cute lady who had three little ones clamoring about her legs and she promised to have it for us by 7pm tonight.
After we left her establishment (which was a cinder block cubby with a roll down front and her living area behind a curtain in the back), we drove down to the beach. The beach area was obviously a more affluent area. The Pueblo area was so run down and full of rubble. The only part that looked livable was the area around their school. So I was pleased that their children seemed to be a priority. Dad said that this town brought him back 50 years to the type of towns he served in on his mission. Meager and poor but friendly and busy. The beach is beautiful and you could see the reef from shore so I am sure that snorkeling there would be great.
I was driving around looking for a particular restaurant that was recommended to us when I saw a hostal. We decided to check it out. It wasn’t as nice as the one in Vallodollid and they charged more. Still it was clean and much cheaper than the hotel...but I decided against it. We are going to the Hotel Banana in Playa del Carmen tomorrow. The host of the hostal gave us directions to La Panza el Premier (the restaurant) and as we were following his directions we started down a street going the wrong way (in my defense it was not marked in any way that I could see) and there just happened to be a policia right there (@#%$!). He jumped out of his car and waved me over. While I was turning around I debated whether to give him my real drivers license or my paper copy. A friend of ours who travels to this area a couple of times a year told us to have a paper copy of our license to hand to police because sometimes they see the rental car and pull people over then hold their license for money. He had been asked for $200usd once but luckily was able to talk them down to $40usd. I was pretty nervous but I had dad with me so I didn’t panic. I decided to hand him my real license. He spoke in Spanish but I got the gist of what he wanted me to do. I had the Alamo rental agreement in my trunk so I got out and opened up the trunk for him to see that it was empty (now that the stinky laundry was out of there). He actually was quite nice. He didn’t seem like the power monger that some of the machine gun wielding guys along the 307 seem to be. Anyway he studied the rental agreement and my license for a few minutes then gave them back to me and said a few things to dad and we were off. PHEW! We parked the car and decided to do the rest of our exploring of that place on foot.
We have gone through 120 bottles of water so after Puerto Morelos we headed to Cancun for water bottles. We decided to stop at the Walmart just into town but the Walmart was ridiculously expensive and they didn’t have a Mexican flag which Gramps has been looking for so we decided to go all the way in to Costco. I made a big boo boo and missed the turn to Kabah Avenue and we ended up spending the next 45 minutes maneuvering through the city and trying not to get smooshed by the weird traffic here in Cancun. These people don’t get the stay in your lane thing. Even if there are clearly only 2 lanes marked on the road there may be one car straddling the line or three cars practically mirror to mirror across the road. And roundabouts! Gees talk about scary! Again, I didn’t panic since I had dad with me but I was building a raging headache and a mound of frustration. We got to see the whole town after all. It was definitely the scenic route. Some people (my husband included) seem to have a built in GPS unit in their brains. I do NOT. And neither does Dad. Well, we finally made it to Costco and I treated myself to a pina colada and Dad got a bottomless soda-which he filled up several times. We got 60 more water bottles and a pumpkin pie to celebrate Thanksgiving with then we headed for the barn.
The kids had made the fourth and final pot of spaghetti for the week (yes I am sick of it but it is an easy, filling food and we made the mistake of buying the supplies at Costco and I hate to throw food away) and had already eaten when we got home. I snarfed some down and we all went to the pool to see if I could catch just a few rays of sun before it went down. It goes down around 5 here. Seems really early. Grandpa stayed at the room to snooze. Apparently the kids had had a great time at the beach while Gramps and I adventured. They played volleyball in the sand for most of the time and worked up a great appetite.
When Grandpa and I went back for our laundry it wasn’t quite finished so Dad chatted with the lady’s husband and played with the children for a bit. They all took to Dad so fast just like just about everyone else we meet down here. A couple of kids brought a load of laundry in and the little sister was so dirty that I thought she should have been left to be cleaned along with the clothes.
When we got home we had bbq beef sandwiches, salad, strawberry fruit drink and the rest of the spaghetti. We had that yummy pumpkin pie for dessert.
We are all packed up and ready to check out tomorrow. We will explore Isla Mujeras tomorrow then eat dinner in Puerto Morelos at that restaurant that we finally found...at least that is the plan tonight. Life is bountiful.